Installing a New Shower Unit
An effective shower setup needs mindful planning and a great deal of work. Most of the times, you will require to do 3 types of jobs: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to pick the type of shower that you wish to set up. It is essential to establish whether the picked shower is capable of handling particular systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower systems nowadays are created to be versatile to various water pressures (such as stored warm water and cold mains).
It is likewise crucial to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be connected to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature level can be adjusted by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and very read this basic to install. However, although the hose connection is basic, it is easily removed. Additionally, it is bothersome to change the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is an extremely inexpensive alternative and no additional plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise experience inconvenient temperature level control options.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the previously pointed out mixers. They also require extra plumbing of hot and cold water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water materials are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. One of the greatest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature control. However, it is the most expensive of the various mixer options.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit including an effective electric pump that is capable of changing both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water cistern and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated up straight by the shower or where the plumbing maintenance tips water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is very important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit permits the temperature level and pressure to be changed by means of a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are better as they stay unaffected by other taps elsewhere in usage within the family. A significant drawback of electrical showers is that the control knob just allows for the choice of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. Nevertheless, this problem is tackled in some models which are offered with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to install, the shower head must either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.
Before starting, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. Additionally, the drain system to remove the waste water will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will likewise require to be thought about if an immediate or electrical shower unit is being installed.
Use the direction guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipelines that will supply the water to the shower system, it is necessary to cut off the water supply. In order to safeguard the pipelines, they should be offered a water resistant covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leaks, as some might need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have actually been made (there need to be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be raised to a higher height (sometimes as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support beneath it-- possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this choice, the main and circulation pipes will also need to be raised to satisfy the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilize 15mm diameter supply pipelines, and make the go to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding maintain maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by reducing the use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the water supply. You can achieve this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or disregarding regional code restrictions.
# Using pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not using tape or pipeline substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when setting up them.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
# Not appropriately lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outdoors hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.